Above the clouds: Annapurna, part III

The last few days of my trek were spent up in the clouds in the spectacular rhododendron forest (pictures in my last post). After gaining around 1,000 meters in the morning after leaving Gandruk, we spent two days hiking what is known as "Nepali Flat" - lots of steep ups and downs, but always hovering around the same altitude. I got one quick far-away sighting of a monkey (I think maybe a grey langur?) and heard a symphony of hidden birds, but the real wildlife in the rhododendron forest is the terrestrial leeches, who love rain and foreigners' blood. I avoided any bites by constantly checking my boots, and I still can't explain why they love me and completely left my guide alone.

The literal high point of the trip was Poon Hill, which everyone climbs to watch the sunrise over the mountains. After five clear sunny mornings, I woke up at 3:45 am to the sound of rain. Crap. But I was determined and hopeful, so at 4:30 when the rain stopped, we went anyway, accompanied by a couple of Circuit trekkers whose guides had slept through the rain, hoping that the clouds would clear up and we'd see the panoramic view I'd been waiting for all week. No such luck. But the sunrise was lovely anyway, and my boiled eggs and Tibetan bread were extra delicious after a little pre-dawn climb.

After Poon Hill we climbed down more than 3,000 stone steps, descending around 2,000 meters back towards warmer weather and "civilization." For the last half hour we walked along a brand-new road that will eventually go almost all the way to Gorepani. Roads mean access to schools, doctors, markets, and generally things that make people's lives better. But trekkers don't want to walk along roads, especially once the roads have cars on them - so what will happen when trekkers stop coming through these villages that seem to rely so much on hungry tourists? On the upside, no more lugging beer up the mountain on foot - if they keep getting beer-drinking trekkers, that is.

On our last day, we hiked out and I splurged on a taxi back to Pokhara, a big "Continental" lunch including the best mango smoothie I've ever had, and a mediocre "trekkers' special" massage.